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Radio Silence, Images that kill you, and a Mohair Runway.

4/16/2016

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Hey all.

I'm back. Did you miss me? Had some inactivity over the last few weeks, I hope you didn't all regress to wearing blue checked shirts and those Smoky the Bear hats Pharrell wears.

But where was I? Who was they? And when would?  

So many questions, I'll do my best to backtrack and let you know what's been going on.

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The Sun is a Nuclear Fusion Ball of Death: Please dress accordingly.

3/9/2016

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For those of you who are reading this from Australia, you have been in Autumn for about a week now. I'll forgive you if you haven't noticed.  For those of you not in Oz, It's fucking hot. Please send help.

But I know help won't come, it never does. That o-zone hole keeps doing a number on us, and there is nothing I can do to save you, Turncoats. It's as if this great southern land is hidden in a summer for million years...

"But Turncoat guy" I hear you pant as you crawl across the dry, red earth, "Is all hope lost for us? Is there any way I can attempt to look good in this nightmarish globally warmed (which is totally a thing) climate?" [Gasp gasp.... keels over].

Fear not, Turncoats! It is possible to look babin' and not sweat like the hog you probably are. Here are my five steps on how to beat the extended summer heat whilst maintaining comfort and dignity.
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Hellball is Hell. I hate you, Hellball.

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Oscars Night: Actors are not always good at dressing.

3/6/2016

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So, the idea this week was that I was going to write up a snappy and snarky review of the menswear from Hollywood's night of nights, the Oscars. I knew I would be generally disappointed, and I would need to get out my sharp words. I had no idea that the Oscars host would start the ball rolling for me. I'm glad someone at the Oscars finally called out the biggest issue with the men's clothing at the Oscars: Monotony. I love events that can critique themselves, the best kind of pudding is a self saucing pudding.
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Photograph by Kevin Winter/Getty images.

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Menswear Review: Alexandre Plokhov.

2/28/2016

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Wah wah wah, moan moan moan.  I sometimes think all some bloggers do is tear down the people who they write about. The internet is full of sassy fashion commentators ready to mouth-off over what they see and rubbish the whole thing. Don't get me wrong, I think criticism is an important part of the process, and it is entertaining to read, but shitting on everything isn't exactly blogsmanship. I believe it's important to acknowledge those that are doing the right thing, and recognise them for what they are contributing to menswear as a whole.

I have done a lot of shitting in the last few posts. I thought I would like to take a moment to do a bit of a review of a menswear designer who is little known, but a personal favourite of mine. Not everyone will like the looks, but this is my blog, so.... deal with it.

​Below is my review for Alexandre Plokhov.
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Alexandre Plokhov F/W 2014

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Simmering Cold Rage and Group Therapy: Why can't I have what I want?

2/18/2016

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Contrary to popular belief, I do not hate absolutely everything I see in the fashion world.  But you know, sometimes I think it would be easier if I did. If I hated all of it, then I wouldn't care, and I could move on to some more meaningful projects, like global domination or learning to drive.

So when I see something I actually like, I get excited. I think maybe things will change and there'll be lot's of awesome and affordable things for me to wear and I will look awesome always. Happy Ending. But then, ultimately, I am disappointed. There is always a spanner in the works, always some hurdle or hitch that stops the joy coming. Rage builds, repress to function.

When I look for clothes, I go through this process on a small level, and I never end up buying ANYTHING. Below are the most common reasons I have for raging out when trying to buy stuff for myself. By sharing with you today, I'm hoping we can work through this together, as friends,  because I'm certain that these feelings are not exclusively mine.  Think of it as a guided group therapy session.  You trust me, right?
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Turncoat Mental Health Professional, seems legit.
​More beyond the break. ​

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Next Big Thing: Urban Jedi.

2/4/2016

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Hi.

So, about two weeks ago in the Lumbersexual post, I said I would attempt to look into the future and tell you all the equivalent of fashion-lotto numbers. As I said then, there is a whole industry based around this idea, it's called Fashion Forecasting. Basically, what fashion forecasters do is look at the collections of the current seasons and see what elements keep popping up, then they say that that is a 'trend', and that we'll see more of it all over the place. They get paid a lot to do this. It would be like if the weather man told you tomorrow's weather by looking at recaps from the weather channel the week before.

I don't have a lot of faith in it. As an aside: Never trust someone like Tim Bailey to pick your shirt for you.  
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[Outdated cheap shot at local celebrity here]

​But I get it, you didn't click on this post to look at pictures of Tim Bailey. If you did, please leave. You came here because of the clickbait title that had the word 'Jedi' in it.  And no, it's not just clickbait. I have strong reason to believe that 'Urban Jedi' is a look that we are going to see more of. 

​You don't have to believe me, and you can treat me with the same scepticism that I treat the fashion forecasters, but here me out.  Big reveal below the break.

WARNING: Maybe spoilers? Jedi fans might want to get someone to proof read this. But if you ask me, anyone who would have cared about it that much would have seen the film by now. Live a little.

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Swimsuits are f***ed.

1/30/2016

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After last weeks post on the "Lumbersexual", I was going to post on the new look I think is up and coming. However, with the heat we've had, and the public holiday today, I decided I would take a summer type of theme and discuss my experiences in buying swimmers on ebay  earlier this season, and the nightmares I found.
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Because I couldn't find one of these stunners.

​Ok, so friendly warning, some of the images beyond the break are going to be a bit.... confronting. There is no actual nudity or over-eighteen-ness about this, but if your boss walks past your computer while you are looking at these; or if that old lady on the bus behind you can see your phone; you are definitely going to be judged.

You have been warned. It's ok, we'll get through this together. 

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The Birth and Death of the Lumbersexual

1/20/2016

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There are some really interesting pieces of work out there on the idea of Male Beauty and Masculinity in society. I could cite a million sociology journal articles or gender studies papers on the topic. But this is the 21st Century, ain’t nobody got time for that. Google it.

But for you, the Turncoat reader, your time is as precious as space-gold, so I'll just spell it out for you.  “Lumbersexual”. Even if you have never heard this term before, and even if you are not in the fashion loop in any way, I know you will recognise what I’m talking about here. It's one of the dominant and most visually obvious male beauty ideals around. 
I hope you were not attached to this strange species.  As of this week, I have noted some strong indicators that show that their numbers are in decline, and that they will slowly be moving towards extinction.
 
Raising a Lumbersexual
The Lumbersexual is basically the child of two previous looks, the Metrosexual and the Hipster. Like all children, the Lumbersexual had features of both parents, but was also a rebellion against both these ‘movements’.

The Metrosexual, as some of you will remember, epitomised the ideas of men embracing fashion, style and grooming, but the culture itself had overtones of effeminacy. Even the name itself was a portmanteau [magic word thing], as men's style and fashion was often associated with cities and gay culture.

The Lumbersexual took the love of style and grooming from the Metrosexual, but wanted to move away from the effeminacy. A looooooong way. The result is a hyper masculine aesthetic. No hint of the city, everything about the Lumbersexual looks rough and tumble. No salmon shirts for Bruce. But make no mistake, he still uses his ylang ylang beard oil, and he still buys expensive leather belts. The secret here is that it doesn't LOOK like he cares about that sort of thing. Although the beard looks effortless, and the look is hard; the beard is groomed daily, and his moisturised skin is as soft as a …. soft… mountain… thing. Blogging is hard.

The Lumbersexual appears more like its Hipster parent, but the similarities are surface level only. The differences are all morals and values and shit. You know when a total stoner hippy couple have children, and those kids grow up to be accountants? The Hipster and Lumbersexual are a lot like that. The Hipster movement was all about counter culture. It was absolutely dripping with irony, like organic sourdough with too much foraged loganberry compote.

Now remember, the Lumbersexual is all about the masculine. So it took the flanno and canvas pants, but it has no time for the convoluted soft thinking of the Hipster. Simple, manly, un-ironic ideas.
Kale? Screw you. BACON.
Box frame glasses? Pfft. They’re for nerds.
St Germaine G&T? Fuck off. BEERS.
But of course, ciders and craft beers, because like any child, the apple (or hops) doesn't fall very far from the tree. [Bam. I totally nailed that]
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Heh heh... memes.

The End:
They had a good run, but I have seen the portents, and the end is nigh. I had had my suspicions for some time, the numerous articles on beard exit plans, but I’m calling time of death at seeing the following article headline.

“Justin Bieber’s Man Bun Is Small But Full Of Potential”
http://www.mtv.com/news/2726207/justin-bieber-man-bun-2016/

Thanks MTV, that’s a death knell if ever I heard one. For an aesthetic that relies on masculinity, Bieber is like a tweenage no-pubes poison. As the look gets butchered by pop culture, it begins to fall apart and dilute, new looks coming in to pick at the carcass and take what they can.
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Pictured above: Harbinger of the End Times
​So who comes next?
​
There is a whole industry, 'fashion forecasting', whose job it is to assume the upcoming trends of the next few years. I have as much faith in them as I do the starsigns in Woman's Weekly...

Which I totally don't read....

I have some ideas on what I think is goi
ng to big. I can't wait to write a big long post about it, so we can all look back in about a year and see just how little I actually know. Anyway, that's what's coming next, so stay tuned.

If you want to be updated on when I release these things, you should follow the Turncoat Facebook page, link below. That way we can all stalk each other. You know, facebook stuff...

James VV.

Facebook link:

www.facebook.com/turncoatmenswear
​
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The Blue Checked Shirt, and how your mum owns your balls.

1/16/2016

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One of the biggest issues I have with mens fashion can be summed up in one unforgivable fashion item: The blue checked shirt.

Go into any menswear shop in any mall, shopping centre or online site and have a look through. Ok, I know you won't. Because you are lazy, you should probably get outside more.  But because I love you, look at these things.
Roger David, H&M. MJ Bale, Zara.
These 'items of clothing' are a mainstay of the menswear industry. Every year, each menswear label will pull out a collection that has at least one of these tea towels in it. Easy design, no brainer, phone it in. And what's the worst part?

They sell. Every time.

Did you ever think why men want these? Who decided that the blue checked shirt was an empowering status certifier? or a sex symbol? or a sign of creativity or self expression? No one. No one did.

Then how did these things get ABSOLUTELY EVERYWHERE? Like those little brown roaches in a sharehouse, you can hardly turn a corner or cook jaffles without seeing one of these things. Who did this? Who is to blame?

Truth Bomb:  Your mother.

Don't take it personally, not just your mum, every guys mum. When you were fifteen your mum had to find clothes for you to wear. Something inoffensive, something you can "grow into". Now, lots of mums are busy working, raising kids, trying not to lose their whole lives while teenagers sap there will to live. They don't know what's "hip" in young mens fashion. They don't want their sixteen year old to have empowered status certifiers, or to be a sex symbol. They are looking for something that makes their little boy look like a sweetheart, but also doesn't colour clash with the pink-as acne he has. So mum buys you the blue checked shirt, and you wear it. She tells you how smart you look, and so does your dad and all your friends. You are taught that this blue checked shirt is a fine look for "Johnny Schooldude", and you develop a series of blue checked shirts and variations for different occasions.

Now before you all go and cry victim while I hold your mother accused, there is an accomplice in this crime.

Second Truth Bomb: It's you. It's still your fault.

So, don't let me lose you here. Young people have learnt from their mum what to wear, but the problem is that as guys get older, they never re-learn what to wear. They are using the same rules they learnt as children and applying them when they are grown men. They do not consider what styles look good on them. They do not consider the fits that flatter them. They are not aware what the options at their disposal.

So, blue-pill/red-pill moment. 

Some people have the revelation. They start taking an interest in what they like to wear, and seek to learn more.  They step up, and learn that fashion is not just meant to be for your mother and your girlfriend to pick for you, but an opportunity to assert yourself; to express yourself; to show those around you that you have a status, or character, or confidence. When you see these people on the street, you can see that they have it, it oozes from them.

And then some guys don't. They sit on that chair in clothing store, while their mum/girlfriend throws shirts at them that they hate. Most are blue checked shirts, and the guy tries them on. They kind of fit, and they'll do, so they just say "yes" so the whole saga can end because they are too afraid to try.

Pathetic, really.

So now that you've read this, you need to consider what you're doing. Who do you want to be? Do you take up the mantle and rise to the challenge? Do you accept the responsibility for your appearance, embrace it, and then reap the amazing and exciting rewards?

Or, do you ignore it? Do you opt out? Do you dress like an awkward adolescent for the rest of your life, never graduating into the responsibilities of adulthood? Do you chose to never understand the full potential you could achieve, the maximum amount of handsome you could be?

The choice is yours really: the red pill, or the blue checked pill.

[See what I did there?]

James VV.    
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Prologue: "Who is the Turncoat?" or: "Why do you dress like the jerks you work with?"

1/6/2016

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First post,  do people read these?

If you ARE reading this, the site is up. Well done for me. And you, for reading it. But don’t get cocky on your success just yet, reader, you don’t know what you’ve gotten yourself into.

This is the Turncoat website. I created this site for a number of reasons, but mostly it was so I could vent about what I’m passionate about. Hopefully, my ranting is as good as I’m told it is, and you can take some kind of joy in my frustration.

This is a menswear site. I’m a menswear nerd, and have studied mens fashion design in a college almost as illustrious as the one from “Community”. One day, I hope to flog my amazing and brilliant designs at you so you can lap them up, and I get all your money. Watch this space, budget now.

Until then, I’ll blog/rant here. Since I love menswear *so much*, I actually end up hating it *so much*. Truth of the matter is, I think that the menswear industry has some serious fundamental issues with it, and that’s why you dress the same as at least three other guys you work with.

Baaaaa…

“But Turncoat guy” I hear you say, “What can I do? I can only make do with what I’m given.”
How about: Quit whining, and  I’ll tell you what to do! I’ll post here with updates, happenings, hints and tips and casual abuse. I write, you read. Got it? Good.

Over and out.  Whatever.
 
James VV.

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    The Turncoat:

    James  gnawed  his   foot off to escape   corporate  slavery  to bring you menswear. He was jaded and offended by what the fashion industry was offering him, and now fights to forge a new path.

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